I have three goats right now two wethers and a buck. One of my wethers just started having soft stool. It isn't really runny but it is like dog poo. He also started with a hacking cough. These are my first goats so I'm not sure what to do. Is this a sign of Johne's disease and is there any cure for that? I just wormed him with ivermectin so I'm hoping that helps but his gums and eyelids looked nice and pink so I dont think he's really wormy...any suggestions?
Did the soft stool start before or after you wormed him? It might be from the worming medicine if it started after. Johne's is not that common and unless the herd he came from had issues, I wouldn't get too worried about that. There are many things that come to mind before Johne's when a goat seems sick. What is he eating? Fresh grass/pasture can also affect poop...changes in feed, moving them causing stress, etc. Check his temp to see if there is any sign that he might have the start of pneumonia or something going on with the cough.
Post by Rose's Goats on Mar 24, 2011 2:20:40 GMT -5
It is probably coccidiosis. This time of year is a big one for goats coming down with it. Coccidia are an internal parasite that isn't a worm and isn't killed with deworming medicines. You need to treat with Dimethox or another sulfa drug. I prefer Dimethox 12.5% drinking water solution given orally. Treat with 1.5 tblsp of Dimethox mixed with 1.5 tblsp of water. Give this orally as a drench. Treat for 5 full days. It may take a day or two of treatment to get the poops to return to normal. Be sure to give for the full 5 days. Follow each treatment each day with a dose of Probios probiotic paste 12 hours later. This will help to replace the good gut bacteria that will be killed by the medicine. Keep giving the Probios everyday for 5 days after finishing treatment.
The cough could be lungworms. If it is a dry cough with no flem, then I would think lungworms. They live in the lungs and don't normally show up on a fecal exam. They also don't normally affect eyelid color. The ivermectin should take care of them. I dose my goats with Ivermectin 1.87% horse paste at a 3X weight dose (if the goat weighs 100 lbs, I give it a 300 lbs dose). Goats have very high metabolisms so they need more dewormer than most animals. If you didn't give them a 3X dose of the ivermectin the first time, I would deworm them again at 3X. The cough should go away in a few weeks.
I wormed him after I noticed his looser than normal stool. I will check his temp today for the cough issue, he is acting perky so I'm hoping it will go away on its own and not develop into something serious. Maybe the warmer weather will help with that too. Thank you for the input! I feel better now about the johne's disease thing. By the way what do they need as far as minerals go? They have a salt block and mineral block do they need anything else? Thanks!
Post by Rose's Goats on Mar 24, 2011 2:42:20 GMT -5
For minerals, it is very important that goats get loose minerals made for goats. Blocks are too hard for goats to get enough out of. Loose minerals are much easier for them to eat. Be sure they are made for goats because minerals not made for goats are usually formulated for sheep and won't have any added copper (sheep can't have supplemental copper). I like to use Sweetlix Meatmaker 16:8 for my loose minerals. It is a great blend for all types of goats (not just meat ones). You can special order it through most feed stores.
To feed the loose minerals you can just leave a pan of them out in each goat pen or goat area. They will eat them as they see fit. Goats don't like stale or wet minerals so you will have to empty and refill the pans a couple of times a week. Also sometimes when first starting goats on minerals it is good to mix the minerals with any grain you give them to get them used to the taste.
As long as the minerals aren't medicated you can feed them free choice to the goats all year round. Medicated minerals must be mixed with grain and fed with the grain ration. They are usually medicated for coccidiosis prevention. I use the medicated ones in the winter for my dairy does. It seems to help them keep up with looking good all winter long. Once they are producing milk in the spring I switch them to the non-medicated type of minerals.