Post by paintsrule on Jan 14, 2009 16:28:33 GMT -5
I checked the one click and it said a lot more than the label stated. The label says 2.3 ml/100 lb, and the one click says 1 cc/5lbs. That would be 20 cc/100 lbs. Since a cc, is about the same as a ml, which is right? As it is, I did about a double to triple dose according to the packaging... Its 10% suspension.
safeguard is not used much anymore in certain areas due to resistance this wormer but it is safe and you can't overdose with it.... The dosage is 2.3 ml per 100lbs.... You have to give it for at least 3 consecutive days and if your goats have a worm overload you may want to follow up with a wormer like Valbazen... Although if your does are pregnant do not give them the Valbazen.... Give a good dose of Probios or yougart to your goats after worming to return essential bacteria to the gut..
Post by paintsrule on Jan 14, 2009 18:55:36 GMT -5
I used Safeguard because it was safe for pregnant goats, as I have some that were supposed to be bred when I got them, but werent. I will also follow up with Ivermectin later. Our goat and sheep specialist didnt think that in our area they were resistant. I highly doubt many people use it here, they mostly use Tramisol, or ivermectin.
three times the label dose for three days for heavy worm load, reworm in 10 to 14 days to kill hatched larva , hold food for 12 hr worm and hold food for 6 hr , an empty rumen gives a better kill rate when dose is oral , give water only.
Who turned on the eletric fence without telling me? X#!
Post by Rose's Goats on Jan 15, 2009 10:37:48 GMT -5
The reason for the 3X the weight dose on dewormers like ivermectin and safeguard is because goats have very high metabolism and dewormers aren't effective at lower doses most times. Ivermectin and safeguard are both hard to overdose with, so the higher dosage won't hurt your goats. The stronger dewormers, like cydectin and valbazan, are easier to OD on so follow the instructions closely.
Post by paintsrule on Jan 15, 2009 16:34:37 GMT -5
Well they pretty well got 3 times, and I will be doing them later with a stronger wormer, I wanted something that everyone could be given. THey all had decent color in their eye lids anyways, so figure this should do them. I will do them again though, I have enough to dose 2 more times, and can get more later.
Post by Rose's Goats on Jan 16, 2009 9:49:17 GMT -5
Watch out using too much dewormer in too short a period. Pretty much every dewormer strips the stomach lining and intestinal flora so you can do a lot of harm (even with giving probios afterwards) than good. I would shoot for deworming only about every 6 months. If their eyelids look good and they are not exhibiting any symptoms of illness, then I would back off on the deworming. You can also make the worms resistant to dewormers if you continually deworm. I am not saying to not deworm when needed or to not follow a schedule, just pace out how often you deworm so as not to strip out the goat's digestive systems.
The best thing you can do is take a fecal sample to a vet or better yet -- learn how to do it on your own. It's not hard and the only thing you need is a relatively low power microscope (or access to one). There's places on the internet to see pictures of different worm eggs and learn to identify them easily. Then you always know when to deworm and what kind of worms you are dealing with.